2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee O2 Wiring Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 Commander 3.7 V6
99,000 miles.
Starting to intermittently show CEL Code P0153 (O2 sensor, bank 2, sensor 1). I haven't notice any performance issues, and I visually checked for exhaust and intake leaks. As far as I can see, everything checks out OK so I am going to replace the O2 sensor.
While under the vehicle, I was trying to figure out a way to remove the sensor. The sensor is located right off the exhaust manifold just before the mini-cat on the passenger side of the vehicle. It's in a really tight space. I traced the Electrical connector end of the O2 sensor and that also looks like an access problem.
Being that I don't have access to a lift, I will be removing if from below.
Has anyone removed and replaced this sensor and if yes, what is the best approach.
Thanks in advance.
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Removing the sensor is easy, except for disconnecting the electrical connector. The connector for both O2 sensors on either side is between the engine and the firewall, I have big arms and hands and it was a bear getting them up into that cramp area to disconnect the connectors. Perhaps smaller arms and hands it will be easier. I looked could not see any practical way of moving the complex wire harness around to get the connectors to a spot that has more access.
What I didn't try, cause I didn't think of it, might be to unbolt the connector twisting the wires around, you probably have enough length of wire to do it without damage, count the number of turns to remove the sensor. Pull the O2 sensor up past the spot between engine and firewall and hope the connector comes out in the engine bay with enough room to disconnect it. Reconnect the new O2 sensor, snake it down behind the engine to where it needs to go, then twist the sensor the number of turns it will take to bolt it down, to pre-twist the wire bundle enough that its straight after bolting the sensor in.
Oh, O2 sensors love to seize to the exhaust bung, I have broken wrenches trying to get them out. BUT, if you run the engine to get the exhaust hot, the heat will expand the bung and let the O2 sensor break free. Of course you can burn yourself on the hot exhaust, so after heating up the exhaust, just put a wrench on the sensor and break it free doing a half turn or more and then let the exhaust cool down before going to work.
And a final note, anti-seize and other chemicals will destroy the O2 sensor. I have had brand new O2 sensors go bad in a month, and sure enough when I pulled them, they were smeared with anti-seize. The threads will come coated in anti-seize with a cover on them to prevent it getting on the sensor. You have to be very careful installing the O2 sensors to make sure you don't get the anti-sieze on the sensor portion, nor do you get any chemicals on it, even greasy hands touching the sensor portion can damage the sensor. Wash your hands thoroughly before going to install the new sensor.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I actually thought about removing the connector from inside the engine bay.......something that I have to look at a little closer.
I have heard that applying a solvent (PB Blaster) to the sensor before removing it can make it a little easier. My fears are that some of the residue from the solvent will get on the new sensor and destroy it. Any thoughts on this.
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PB blaster or others rarely can penetrate seized threads well enough in a few hours. Applying PB Blaster everyday for a week will allow it to work in over time and might help. I usually do that on stubborn bolts a week before I plan on doing the job, I think I did it on my Commander. Regardless, I had to run the motor and heat up the exhaust before the O2 sensor broke free, so that would burn off an PB Blaster.
You just have to be careful not to get anything smeared on the O2 sensor part, especially anti-seize and there will be anti-seize on the threads right by it, so you can imagine if you're not careful you could make a mess of it.
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PB blaster or others rarely can penetrate seized threads well enough in a few hours. Applying PB Blaster everyday for a week will allow it to work in over time and might help. I usually do that on stubborn bolts a week before I plan on doing the job, I think I did it on my Commander. Regardless, I had to run the motor and heat up the exhaust before the O2 sensor broke free, so that would burn off an PB Blaster.
You just have to be careful not to get anything smeared on the O2 sensor part, especially anti-seize and there will be anti-seize on the threads right by it, so you can imagine if you're not careful you could make a mess of it.
Good to have you back Mongo, you've been missed.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update: Sensor replaced this morning (3/4/2016)..........The sensor itself came right off using only a 7/8 wrench and some PB Blaster. The hard part was gaining access to the physical connector. It was wedged between the firewall and the Transmission Dipstick tube. I was able to wiggle it out with a lot of sweat and "bad words".........about an hour's worth of work.
All seems good now.
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Update: Sensor replaced this morning (3/4/2016)..........The sensor itself came right off using only a 7/8 wrench and some PB Blaster. The hard part was gaining access to the physical connector. It was wedged between the firewall and the Transmission Dipstick tube. I was able to wiggle it out with a lot of sweat and "bad words".........about an hour's worth of work.
All seems good now.
Nice work.
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Update: Sensor replaced this morning (3/4/2016)..........The sensor itself came right off using only a 7/8 wrench and some PB Blaster. The hard part was gaining access to the physical connector. It was wedged between the firewall and the Transmission Dipstick tube. I was able to wiggle it out with a lot of sweat and "bad words".........about an hour's worth of work.
All seems good now.
Yes, Good Work, I think you did it in a third of the time it took me......
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Yes, Good Work, I think you did it in a third of the time it took me......
how did you get to the plug?was it from underneath or above?i need to do this this weekend and cant see how we can get to the plug.i want to do it like mongo says but im not sure if it will work.
I want to take the sensor out and then fish it up thru the top with the wire still on it hoping to gain a little extra length.
I seriously cant even feel where it is located from the bottom.i can just feel the wire going between the dipstick and the rear of the engine.
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how did you get to the plug?was it from underneath or above?i need to do this this weekend and cant see how we can get to the plug.i want to do it like mongo says but im not sure if it will work.
I want to take the sensor out and then fish it up thru the top with the wire still on it hoping to gain a little extra length.
I seriously cant even feel where it is located from the bottom.i can just feel the wire going between the dipstick and the rear of the engine.
@cherokeechief76 Which engine do you have?
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it is a bone stock 2006 with the 3.7 6 cyl.
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it is a bone stock 2006 with the 3.7 6 cyl.
These are for a 2006 Grand Cherokee 3.7 but should be the same for yours.
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thank you,
both videos were helpful but neither show how to reach the plug for the top pass side one on the commander.
I can snake my fat arm up following the wire but can just barely touch the plug.
I want to know if I pull the sensor with the wires still attached if I could gain anything at all by pushing it all up to the top of the engine.or does it have to come out from the bottom?
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thank you,
both videos were helpful but neither show how to reach the plug for the top pass side one on the commander.
I can snake my fat arm up following the wire but can just barely touch the plug.
I want to know if I pull the sensor with the wires still attached if I could gain anything at all by pushing it all up to the top of the engine.or does it have to come out from the bottom?
I don't see how you could possibly remove it from the top. Did you watch the videos? You have to unscrew the sensor, it doesn't just pull out.
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no sorry,
removing the sensor I can do....its unplugging it that's the problem.
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no sorry,
removing the sensor I can do....its unplugging it that's the problem.
Oh, gotcha'. I can't help you with that. I guess you'll just have to give it a try.
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after reading a few posts on here I decided to return the bosch sensor I bought and get the ntk.
this was not in stock ans had to be ordered.i got it last nite and noticed that the wire is much shorter.
think this will be a problem?im pretty sure the one in there now has a much longer wire.
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after reading a few posts on here I decided to return the bosch sensor I bought and get the ntk.
this was not in stock ans had to be ordered.i got it last nite and noticed that the wire is much shorter.
think this will be a problem?im pretty sure the one in there now has a much longer wire.
From what I've read it is best to use an OEM sensor.
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Oem
As much as I don't want to admit it if you take out an original equipment part and then buy an aftermarket part, they may the same at the sensor but made to fit many models and trimmed to be the most cost saving for the maker not the installer. When you are the installer you want the part to be the same not just similar in looks and use.
When in doubt use Mother Mopar.
Swanny
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As much as I don't want to admit it if you take out an original equipment part and then buy an aftermarket part, they may the same at the sensor but made to fit many models and trimmed to be the most cost saving for the maker not the installer. When you are the installer you want the part to be the same not just similar in looks and use.
When in doubt use Mother Mopar.
Swanny
Very well said Swanny.
I would definitely use nothing but MOPAR/OEM replacement parts for ANY sensors being replaced.
Source: https://www.jeepcommander.com/threads/oxygen-sensor-replacement.63122/
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